Shiseido finds cilantro extract clears skin’s “zombie” cells and lifts collagen

Shiseido has discovered that cilantro fruit extract eliminates the skin’s senescent cells (“zombie” cells) and increases normal cells, in turn, promoting collagen production. The Japanese beauty player says the breakthrough was made possible by recognizing the importance of eliminating senescent cells, which are one of the triggers for aging. 

In skin aging, it is observed that structural cells age, but then negatively affect surrounding cells, accelerating senescence. Drawing on findings from hair regenerative medicine research, Shiseido found that special fatty acids in cilantro fruit extract have high physiological activity. After verifying its effects on skin, it became apparent that the extract may also positively impact fibroblasts. 

Cilantro fruit extract was shown to maintain normal fibroblasts and also increase their number, which regenerates and restores the skin’s ability to produce dermal components. Shiseido says this dual action opens the door to a “new, fundamental, and effective approach to aging care.”

Selective cell elimination

Regenerative medicine is a medical approach that harnesses the power of cells to regenerate lost functions in the body. When culturing cells necessary for regeneration, Shiseido says it is important to increase the number of healthy cells. 

However, a certain number of improperly functioning senescent cells are generated, and these cells release harmful SASP (senescence-associated secretory phenotype) factors that further reduce the number of surrounding healthy cells. A SASP factor refers to a general term for factors, including cytokines, chemokines, growth factors, and proteases, which are secreted by senescent cells. These factors cause inflammation and adversely affect surrounding cells, thus contributing to the progression of aging and related diseases.Shiseido says clearing senescent cells boosts collagen and helps restore skin function. 

Due to the SASP factors, research on senolytics, an approach to eliminate senescent cells, has been actively pursued in regenerative medicine. The regenerative medicine-inspired technologies discovered in Shiseido’s study are expected to delay the progression of skin senescence and restore skin function.

Researchers added cilantro fruit extract to dermal fibroblasts that had been aged through oxidative stress. The extract triggered apoptosis (programmed cell death) in the senescent cells, clearing them away. These effects were not observed in normal cells that had not undergone aging, indicating that the extract specifically acts on senescent cells. 

Furthermore, when the extract was added to a mixture of approximately equal parts normal and senescent cells, a decrease in senescent cells and an increase in normal cells were observed. Decreased expression of aging markers (SA-β-Gal, p21) was also observed. 

These experiments suggest that the extract produces an “ideal effect,” eliminating only senescent cells while increasing normal healthy cells. This increase in normal cells promoted collagen production in dermal fibroblasts 

Cilantro fruit extract was originally found to increase the number of cells that make up hair follicles during hair regenerative medicine research. In 1997, Shiseido developed a cilantro extract that promotes the proliferation of hair matrix cells and hair root sheath cells, resulting in thick, resilient hair. 

Cellular science push 

The research team has found a way to selectively eliminate senescent cells, which Shiseido says was previously difficult to do. 

Other companies have also invested in developing solutions to eliminate the “zombie” cells. 

Last year, Mibelle Biochemistry launched SenoCellTec, an active ingredient powered by plant-based stem cell technology and senolytics to eliminate senescent cells and replenish the skin. 

Earlier, Bonerge released StanYouth CR3. The flavonoid fisetin acts as a “senolytic purifier” by selectively eliminating senescent cells and preventing the formation of new ones. In cellular studies using human dermal fibroblasts, the formula was shown to clear up to 80% of senescent cells, a performance twice as effective as fisetin alone. The extract triggers apoptosis in aged fibroblasts while leaving healthy cells untouched. 

Shiseido says it will continue to leverage its extensive experience in both regenerative medicine and cosmetics, integrating knowledge from the different fields of medicine and cosmetics to advance research on the prevention and treatment of aging. 

Shiseido’s research focus has led to the development of methods for cell evaluation and observation. 

Previously, two studies from the cosmetics company found cytotoxic CD4+ T cells (CD4 CTL) and fermented camellia seed extract can eliminate aged fibroblasts or senescent cells. CD4 CTL is an immune T cell abundant in long-lived people, considered “models of ideal health and longevity.” 

Additionally, in 2023, Shiseido pinpointed the biological mechanisms of special proteins affecting the aging of skin cells, also referred to as the process of senescence. Researchers discovered the influence of a specific protein called YBX1. When this protein is “phosphorylated” (modified by attaching phosphate groups), it leads to the aging of skin cells because this reduces its functions.

Shiseido says clearing senescent cells boosts collagen and helps restore skin function. Shiseido says clearing senescent cells boosts collagen and helps restore skin function. Shiseido says clearing senescent cells boosts collagen and helps restore skin function. The extract triggers apoptosis in aged fibroblasts while leaving healthy cells untouched. The extract triggers apoptosis in aged fibroblasts while leaving healthy cells untouched. The extract triggers apoptosis in aged fibroblasts while leaving healthy cells untouched.